We should check whether there is a concurrent writer at the
start of every mapiternext, not just in mapaccessK (which is
only called during certain map growth situations).

Tests turned off by default because they are inherently flaky.

Fixes #16278

Change-Id: I8b72cab1b8c59d1923bec6fa3eabc932e4e91542
Reviewed-on: https://go-review.googlesource.com/24749Reviewed-by: Brad Fitzpatrick <bradfitz@golang.org>
Reviewed-by: Josh Bleecher Snyder <josharian@gmail.com>